Category Archives: 2. Overview on Madagascar

1. Thoughts on Madagascar

Madagascar has been on my bucket list ever since I read Douglas Adam’s book ‘Last Chance to see’. Most people would think Madagascar is a movie animation with cutesy animals,  its one of the largest islands in the world filled with a fascinating wildlife endemic only to the island.

Part of my aim was to visit the endangered animals and trees endemic to Madagascar, Baobabs trees and the lemurs, primates that are even older than the primates in the rest of the world. Because of Madagascar isolation and its breaking off from Gondwanaland a few hundred million years ago, without competition with the newer primates, this set of older primates evolved into a wide range of lemurs from the strange and weird Aye Aye, the pygmy mouse lemur, the ringtail lemur made famous by the animated movie.

This has been a great experience and my first encounter with such beautiful animals up close. I’m bitten with exploring more wild life and have finally completed my long awaited journey to this amazing country. I climbed up a 5 storey high Baobab tree, saw the elusive Aye Aye, photographed the Zebu market, met the gorgeous locals.

Most Madagascans are so poor that even throw away plastic PET bottles and containers are so precious, many I met in the south were asking for them.  In most places I visited, infrastructure is sorely lacking, there is no sustainable energy grid and the roads are so bad that travel between different places could take much longer than we are use to. A 100km road take at least 3-4 hours of travel.

This country is changing rapidly, unfortunately not for the better, environmentally most of the land are being destroyed. A tough fight between the endemic wildlife and the growing human population.  There are plenty of wild life conservation organisations  but none that help the growing population, most are struggling to survive. Besides the basic education of wildlife conservation, there must be an effective assistance for the human population economically. Water source is limited and land is much needed for agriculture. A tough balance to feed the poor population and to keep the endangered wildlife in tact. Two third of the country have already been destroyed, exploited by mining, wood and other natural resources, only 10% of the original rainforest in the island have remained and converted to national parks.

The people of Madagascar are both warm and friendly and the environment vastly different area to area. Antannarivo the capital is more like some french town filled with colonial architecture and cobblestone streets, Tulear right at the Tropic of Capricorn feels more like a dry drought ridden dusty town, Moroansetra feels more tropical carribean rainforest.  From the cool highlands, to spiny desolate deserts to wet tropical rainforest, this big island has so many contrasts that makes a person like me want to revisit.

Transportation around Madagascar

Land transportation around Madagascar are long and awful, most would save time by flying via the only domestic airline, Air Madagascar and private planes.

Flights

A good suggestion would be to book and pay for your domestic airticket at the time of your international ticket purchase. You would receive 50% discount on the pricey domestic ticket and quoted in US dollars instead of Euros should you buy them locally. Flights are infrequent and often fly twice or once a week, as the planes are small, they get filled up quickly especially during peak season from July – November. All the flights depart and return to Anatannarivo, the capital city which makes it a pain and a waste of a day waiting for your city to city air transfers.

Vehicles

Best to hire a private 4×4 jeep to drive around the various places. The road conditions are so bad that a short 100km could take at least 3-4 hours.  Highways and major roads are old pothole ridden and often left to break down. Private car hires are expensive and it cost me Euro700 for a 10 + 2 day trip return from Anatannarivo to Tulear return. As I only rented a regular car, was not able to visit most of the other places and reserves due to the non-existent roads accessible only via a 4×4 wheel vehicle.  From Anantannarivo/Antsirabe to Morodava cost Euro$300 (bargained down to Euro$275). Private car hires are easily available in your hotels as most have tie up with travel agents.

Public taxi buses are cheap with average of 20,000 – 40,000 aviary (8 euros – 16euros)  for a 12-15 hour ride 400-500km distance. Its a tough ride and often jam packed with people and goods piled up high in the roofs.

Aside from taxi buses, zebu carts can be hired for short distances of less than 20km, extremely slow but effective if you like the scenic view and meeting the locals.

Photographing in Madagascar Reserves

Photographing wild lemurs in Madagascar Reserves

Difficulty in photographing wild animals in dark thick forest reserves, big challenge for me with my slow and testy 70-200m F4. Not quite successful in having decent lemur shots as most are rather shy creatures often spotted high up in the trees hidden by the various thick branches.

For camera gear, best to bring a longer and faster lens,  macro lens, flash, rain cover and bright flood lights/torch light for nocturnal nature walks. I didn’t have all of those as I wasn’t a nature photographer.

Visited a few national reserves, Andasibe-Mantadia , Ranomafana, Isalo etc can be a pricey affair. Guides to all reserves are compulsory and they charge in circuits and hours. The successful ones have additional help, Lemur spotters, young men who spread out in the reserves finding Lemurs for paid tourists. All the guides work together, they communicate with each other through their mobile phones and have become pretty successful in finding the lemurs easily. We tourist get  to ‘spot’ our lemurs up high in the dark dense trees within 2 hours of our 4 hour circuits. This is commercial nature tourism for you especially for impatient tourists like us who want everything including those animals fast.

If you want to experience animals up close and personal, best to stick to private reserves where most of the lemurs are semi-tame and pretty use to being with humans. The reserves have less foliage cover and designed for tourists accessibility compared to the thick dense national parks, thus making photographing these amazing lemurs a less frustrating experience.