Category Archives: 1. Countries

There are more humans in the cemetery at night

Hungry Ghost FestivalTaoist Mediums at the celebrations

Hungry Ghost Festival in Singapore is one of my favorite month of the year. The month long celebration of when all hell breaks loose, releasing all the spirits out onto earth to run amok with the blessing of the gods …

You think Singapore is a little boring and stagnant devoid of any cultural traditions, try visiting this country during the Chinese seventh month (in August), the suburbs come alive with these celebrations for the dead ranging from medium possession rituals to chinese operas and ‘getais’ – concerts for the dead. Where in the world would the cemetery come alive at night with more humans but here in Singapore.

Nothing beats visiting the Chua Choo Kang Chinese Cemetery at 11pm at night and finding tons of people gathering at different spots around this  suddenly rather busy cemetery. The cemetery is ablazed with joss sticks, bonfires and filled with Taoist mediums, along with their entourages in bus coaches and blue neon lighted trucks.  (the blue neon represents the underworld, while anything red in color represents the heavens)

Hungry Ghost Festival

Many Taoist societies (mainly societies who worship hell gods or protector gods of the chinese version of hell) would organise these hungry ghost celebrations by visiting their dead loved ones and flooding them with offerings of food, joss sticks, paper effigies of houses, clothes, money while lighting up their tombs with candles.

It was a beautiful sight where you could see parts of the cemetery covered with lighted candles or joss sticks, the whole area didn’t feel creepy at all.  The pathways are alight with lines of joss sticks and candles. Not exactly what you expect in a Chinese cemetery if you were looking for the supernatural.

I arrived a little late, and only got to catch one major big celebration, there were a few other smaller groups but it was not as exciting nor fascinating  as this event. The cemetery was not as crowded with celebrations compared to the previous years, perhaps a sign that our Singapore economy is improving and we didn’t need to resort to asking our beloved dead ones for better life and money?

This one group I came across was a strange mish mash of religions, this society has two concurrent rituals, a group of China buddhist monks chanting to relieve the dead of its karmas and a group of Chinese Taoist mediums where society members could ask questions from the spirits through these mediums. The mediums would advise how the rituals be done via the medium interpreter and point the followers on when and how things should be placed in the altars for the dead.

The Taoist side had a huge effigy of chinese palace for the houseless spirits along with paper effigies of money and other consumer goods that the wandering spirits would appreciate. The buddhist side of things had the participants offering their beloved dead ones traditional looking Chinese property chest filled with money and clothes.

When I was young, my grandma and I would often fold and create beautiful colorful representations of clothes, gold, silver bullion to offer our deceased ancestors and we burn these in red bins out in the open along with special food like roasted duck and pork and wine both for our ancestors and for the wandering spirits. A ritual we both did during the first, 15th and the last day of the month.

The traditional chinese property chest is more of a modern invention and more convenient way of storing all the gifts for the deceased. I only saw these chests in the recent decade. These modern paper effigies and rituals have become more commercialised and much larger and bigger and of course much more elaborate compared to when I was a kid.

Scattered around this flat clearing in the cemetery were joss sticks and more offerings of coins and food for the lost wandering spirits that might be hovering around looking for food. We humans got offered tasty fruits and praying cakes made from rice flour and brown sugar for good luck and blessings from the protector gods.

Towards the end of the rituals, both the buddhist and the Taoist side begin to gather all its members, circling around the bonfire offerings three times, while chanting. This is one of the typical rituals of paying respect to the dead while offering the deceased comfort and helping to relieve their karmas.

In the short span after, the members begin tossing paper money around, chanting “Huat ah” (prosperity in hokkien), throwing in all the food offerings and joss sticks,  lighting up paper effigies. The bonfire grew larger very quickly and you could feel the heat with the fire engulfing all the effigies.

A sight to behold!


After Notes:

The Hungry Ghost Festival occurs during the 7th month of the Chinese Lunar Calendar mainly occurs during July or August. (It happen to be in August this 2010).  The Chinese pays respect to all the dead, relatives and other dead lost wandering spirits. Along with the Buddhist festival of Ullambana, this tradition mixes Taoist and Buddhists beliefs. It is believed that this time of the month, hell opens its gates and releases the dead to revisit earth. The living would conduct ritualistic offerings to help the dead relief themselves of their unfulfilled desires and resolve any of their suffering, hence the word, Hungry ghosts.

Well that’s my belief for this festival, you might view it differently.

Hungry Ghost Festival

The altars with offerings mainly protector gods as statues

Hungry Ghost Festival

With buddhist or Taoist influence, offerings varies from fruits, vegetarian to meat offerings. It all depends on what the mediums advises.

Hungry Ghost Festival

The boxes are the paper effigies of chinese chest which contains clothes, money and other consumer goods that the dead may use. Each chest are labelled with the name of the deceased. Unnamed belongings or separate pieces are for the lost spirits with no family.

Hungry Ghost Festival

Hungry Ghost Festival

Mantras written paper offerings to relieve the dead from their karmas

Hungry Ghost Festival

The Taoist medium sits on these chairs, mainly for the possessed medium, the chair represents the protector gods, or Taoist ‘hell’ gods.

Hungry Ghost Festival

Climbing up the 18meter Baobab Tree

Climbing up the Baobab TreeMidway up the Baobab climb.

One of the highlights of my Madagascar visit would definately be Morondava’s Avenue de Baobab. These thousand year old giant trees strangely look like it has roots growing from its top. According to the Madagascans legend, they believe that God in creating the first trees, made the mistake and created these trees upside down.

Climbing up the Baobab TreeView from top of the Baobab tree

The Baobab tree is extremely drought resistant and has the capability of going years without water, its hollowed trunk and spongy bark is able to absorb water. This ability had saved the Baobab from mass deforestation as the locals were unable to use the tree for its wood, creating what we see today as the Avenue of Baobabs, with highest concentration of trees around the Morondava area.

Climbing up the Baobab TreeThe village kids gathering below the Baobab trees before they return home.

The increased rice paddyfields activities around this once dry and desert area is endangering the Baobab trees which are drowning from wet agricultural lands. These thousand year old gigantic trees which evolved dealing with low rainfalls faces rapid endangerment from the locals.There have been talks to create a protected area for these trees but there is the challenge of balancing the local’s agricultural needs and the survival of these endangered trees.

Climbing the tree

Climbing up the Baobab TreeClimbing up the Baobab TreeThe climb up the tree was surprisingly easy and takes only 10-15mins

I met two volunteers from non-profit Association of Mad’Arbres while exploring the area. Haja and Ioby were volunteering their time in setting up the tree climbing activity and were camping around Avenue de Baobab. There were not many tourists visiting and climbing the trees, in the 2 months that they were volunteering in the area, Haja mentioned he only set up 8 climbs up the trees.

I did what any other tourists would do, climb up the highest tree for the sunset experience. Climbing up this 18 meter tree might seem be daunting at first, but it proved easy with the pulley system, took me only 10-15mins up the tree with some leg effort and little arm strength. It did get a little tiring midway and I rest for a few seconds to admire the whole scene while a bunch of other tourists were watching us.

Climbing up the Baobab Tree
Mad’Arbre volunteers setting up the tree for my climb in the afternoon

We waited until the late afternoon and went up the Baobab waiting for the sunset and the full moonrise. The view from the top was amazing, looking over the wide fields with scattered Baobabs surrounded by the flooded rice paddyfields.

Preparing for the climb

Haja, the volunteer suggest I should stay in the Baobab until it turned dark. It was his favorite part of the evening just as it turn to dusk, the skies turn pink for that few minutes. I agree that this was the most beautiful time, dusky pink and orange glow with the Baobabs in the foreground. There was a sense of calm serene feeling when most of all the tourists buses have left, the villagers return home, leaving only me and the volunteers hanging around.

Moonrise came a little later than I had estimated, it came up 20mins later than what I had timed from the previous night. Was disappointed I didn’t get a good image of the magical purple hour along with the full moon compared to the previous night. A heavenly sight nonetheless with these ancient tree of life against the full moon backdrop.

Climbing up the Baobab Tree

Haja mentioned while we were up in the tree that they organise overnight stays in the trees in another area. Had I know earlier that I was able to spend a night up in the Baobab tree, I would have organised my stay a little longer.

It would take me another 1hour to head back to Morondava town as the roads were bad. I was the last tourist to leave this beautiful area.

Climbing up the Baobab Tree

Where to climb the Baobab
Situated at the Avenue of Baobab, Mad’arbres Association has a small hut near the carpark. It is a non-profit organisation in support for tree conservation around Madagascar. They conduct these short sessions up the Baobab during sunrise and sunset.

For more information : http://www.madarbres.org/
Facebook : http://www.facebook.com/pages/Madarbres/219887700015

Cost: 40,000 aviary per climb
Overnight stays for sunrise cost 60,000-80,000 aviary
arrange with Mad’arbres volunteer for location and logistics.

Getting to Avenue of Baobab
The roads from Morondava town to the village is broken and takes 30mins -1 hour drive by private car, the local taxi-bousse, ox cart. It is recommended to hire a 4wd vehicle to save travel time. The 4wd vehicle gives you more access to the nearby beaches as well as the other popular Baobab trees around the area such as the Lover’s Baobab and the Twisted twins. All the roads are mostly sand tracks.

Leh, Ladakh Flood and Land slide Appeal Funds

Not many people know of my beloved places, Ladakh, India was deeply affected by the flash floods and landslides  early August 2010. This  has affected many villages in Leh, the major city of Ladakh. This area is not widely reported in world news compare to Pakistan and China. Please help these beautiful peaceful buddhist people who have been so kind to me while I was there.

Winter is coming soon, and here in Ladakh, winter comes harsh and punishingly cruel. The affected villagers need shelter, clothes and many basic equipment for winter. Please send cash directly, collecting clothes and others would be a logistical nightmare. So who should you send your donations to?

There are plenty of places are seeking your funds, but always make sure your donations really get to the people who needs it rather than filtered through various levels of the organisation. Needless to say it is your responsibility to ensure where your donations get received and what organisation really calls to you.

Please donate to :

Mahabodhi International Meditation Centre, Leh, Ladakh

Mahabodhi International Meditation Centre
Devachan, P.O. Box # 22, Leh – Ladakh 194101, INDIA
Ph: +91-1982-264372 Mobile: +91-9906902025, +91-9419178667
www.mahabodhi-ladakh.org

Name of the Bank: Citibank,NA,
Account No: 0-412501-004
Name: Mahabodhi International Meditation Centre,
Bank address: Jeevan Bharti Building, 124, Connought Circus,
New Delhi- 110 001.
Swift Code – CITIINBX
F.C.R.A. # 152710017

Donations within India
Name of account: Mahabodhi International Meditation Centre
Account No. 10942164077
Name of the bank: State Bank Of India
Bank address: State Bank of India,
P.O. Leh, Ladakh (J&K) 194 101
Branch code: 1365
RTGS Code: SBIN0001365
Swift code# : SBININBBA280

IN EUROPE
Buddha Haus Meditations-und Studienzentrum e.V.
Contact Person:
Helga Weinmann-Adam, Gerhard Adam
Ottacker 18 ,  D-87488 Sulzberg ,  GERMANY
Tel.: 08376-8498, Fax: 08376-976431, E-mail: AdamGerhard@t-online.de

http://www.buddha-haus.de

IN UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

Mahabodhi Metta Charitable Fund
Contact Persons: Ms. Carla Montagno & Dr. Tim Moore
31147 Blue Jay Court, Coarsegold, California 93614 USA
Tel: 001-559 683 2512, Fax:001-559 229 8642 , Email: drpins@sti.net

http://www.mahabodhimettausa.org

Dr. Noor V.Gillani, President
The PYAR Fondation
466 Sussex Drive, Huntsville, AL 35824, USA
(256) 658-1101, (256) 961-7755 (Fax), Email: gillani9999@gmail.com

http://pyarfoundation.org

IN MALAYSIA
Mahabodhi Desk Ladakh, Malaysia
Contact Persons:
Sis. Siew Hua
ngshua@hotmail.com
Tel: 012 260 8190

Bro. Charlie Chia
chialuimeng@gmail.com
Tel: 0122893887
email: mimc.malaysiadesk@gmail.com

http://www.mahabodhi-ladakh.blogspot.com

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More photos of the devasated Ladakh can be seen first hand here

Nagasena Thupstan Lundup’s album for Mahabohi Center

Drupa.org

Rip Dr Karen Woo Killed in Afghanistan

A medical doctor, photographer, founder of Afghanistan based medical aid group, Dr Karen Woo was killed along with  nine other volunteers  while delivering medical supplies to Nuristan, North east of Afghanistan.  The group was gunned down and the Taliban have taken responsiblity for the killings

I came across her blog http://explorerkitteninafghanistan.blogspot.com/awhile ago and gotten to know about her death only today. Her writings touches me and how difficult it must have been living in Afghanistan coping with the death of her friends.  Writings about how a 26 year old Afghan woman with 5 kids  disappointed that she was pregnant again and facing the loss of her job as a teacher.

Karen born in England dropped out of school at age of 16 to enrol at London Contemporary Dance School before deciding to become a doctor.  She went on to becoming a surgeon and found her mission  while visiting a friend in Afghanistan.

I admire her guts moving to one of the most dangerous country in the world, a tragic loss for the people of Afghanistan whom she came to help.

On the blog-hosting website Bridge Afghanistan, she explained how she had visited a number of medical projects in Kabul in April 2009:
“The things that I saw during that visit made me, as a doctor, want to bring back the human stories both good and bad.”

Rest in peace Karen, (1975 – 2010)

Getting to Madagascar, cost and itinerary

Madagascar requires a tourist visa, but can be easily obtained at the airport via Visa on Arrival
I got mine at the Madagascar Consulate in Singapore for sg$85.

Visa
Madagascar Consulate
1003, #04-24, Technopreneur Center, Bukit Merah Central Singapore 159836
Tel:  62231316
Call prior application as person in charge may not be at the office
Tourist Visa given for 3 months and starts on the date of application
Application requires one passport photo, flight itinerary, passport and sg$85, processing time 1-2 day. My visa was given on spot without the additional sg$50 for same day processing. The office was closed the next day for some official matters. Yippee for me.

International flight
Flights were booked via Air Madagascar local agent in Singapore. International flight transfers via Bangkok, a short 1 hour stopover in La Reunion to Antananarivo, Madagascar.

WORLD EXPRESS
114 Middle Road #05-01 Singapore 188971, Tel (65) 6336 3877

Domestic Flights
Air Madagascar has the monopoly within Madagascar, so flights can get expensive. Best to pre-book all your domestic flights when making your international flight. 50% discount is given if you have a international flight ticket and quoted in US dollars instead of Euros if you book in Madagascar. Due to the limited flights within the country, suggest that you book your domestic flights prior.
All flights depart and return to Antananarivo, so it can be quite a hassle to waste a night or a day in Antananarivo to transfer from different cities. Domestic flights often experience delays and may take up to a whole 5-6hours just waiting about.

Flight cost
Singapore to Madagascar via Bangkok and La Reunion : sg$1650
Antananarivo to Tulear : Euro $225 return (50% discount if you have Air Madagascar international flight)
Antananarivo to Moroansetra : Euro$225 return
Antananarivo to Morondava : euro $220 return

Most Domestic flights were unavailable within my dates given, so I only managed my flight to Moroansetra

Total Cost
International Airtickets : sg1642.60 /Euro 963.70
Domestic Airticket : Euro 225
Food : Euro 179.80 / 459800 aviary
Water : Euro 4.97 / 12700 aviary
Hotel Accomodation : Euro 148 / 378418 aviary
Land Transport + airport transfer : Euro 29.04 /74250 aviary
Private car hire for 10 days : Euro 490
Non food items : Euro 2.74 / 7000 aviary
Activities : Euro 34.22 / 87500 aviary
Other items : Euro 137.31 / 351090 aviary
Other items : Euro 60

Total expenses (exclude gifts+international airticket) : Euro 1209.44
Total spent : Euro 2173.12

Average expenses  Euro$57.60/day
Average expenses for  include international airticket : Euro$100/day

At time of travel : 1 Euro = 2530 Aviary

(Note : Travel expenses shared by 2 persons, solo travel cost expense may differ)

Average Cost for travelling within Madagascar

Hotel average 20,000 aviary to 60,000 aviary per room

Food at Hotely are cheap, averages 2000 – 4000 aviary per dish consist of a meat + a large pile of rice + boiled rice water + soup.

Food at Hotels or Restaurants averages 3000 – 7000 aviary.
A plate of zebu steak cost average 6000 aviary, prawn dish cost average 5000-8000 aviary, chicken/fish dish cost 4000-5000 aviary comes with vegetables or french fries

Park fees : 15,000 aviary for smaller reserves, major reserves 25,000 aviary, private reserves 5000-8000 aviary

Guide fees : 25,000 – 35,000 aviary for 4 hours circuit walk

Airport Transfers : 10,000 aviary(shared shuttle) – 30,000 aviary Taxi (Anatannarivo airport)

Public Taxi Buses :
range 35000 aviary from Antisirabe to Morondava 10-12 hours
3000 aviary from Tulear to Ifalty 2 hours

My Madagascar Itinerary

Anatannarivo – capital city for travel arrangements

Private car hire with driver consist of 12 days drive from Anatannarivo down to Tulear return

Fanantenana-Andasibe National park – woolly lemurs

Antsirabe – city of crafts and major industries, great place to buy semi-precious gemstones

Ambositra – woodcrafts and precious wood

Ranomanfana National park – Sifaka lemurs

Finanarantsoa – second largest city in Madagascar, great place to stock up on water and other groceries if you are self catering.

Amabalavao – silk craft and the famous zebu market

Anja Private Reserve – semi tame ringtail lemurs and canyon walks

Ranohira – Isalo National Park – popular stunning landscapes, canyons and waterpools

Tulear – Tropic of Capricorn for its beaches

Mangily village at Ifalty beach

Drive Back to Amabalavao for the wednesday/thursday  zebu market

Continued back to Fianarantsoa and Antsirabe

Antsirabe to Morodava – 12hours by car

Morodava – Baobao trees for the full moon

Drive back from Morodava to Anatannarivo 13 hours by car

Fly Anantannarvio – Moroansetra

Moroansetra

Nosy Mangabe National Park

Annatannarivo – half a day at Haute Ville

- End